The lehenga choli is a traditional garment worn by women in South Asia, especially in India and Pakistan. Over the centuries, the Pakistani lehenga has evolved from a simple skirt and blouse to an elaborate and trendy outfit. Traditionally, Pakistani lehengas were quite plain and modest. They were usually made of cotton or silk in solid colors like red, yellow, green, or blue. The skirt (lehenga) flared from the waist down to the ankles, where it was trimmed with a simple border or gota patti embroidery. The choli or blouse was a cropped top with short sleeves. Pakistani brides often wore red lehengas as it signified the color of marriage.
In the 1960s and 70s, lehengas became more decorative as zari embroidery gained popularity. Zari thread which was woven from fine gold or silver wires made the lehengas shine and sparkle. Floral patterns like bel-boothe and kalga were created with zari on the lehenga skirt, which brought a royal feel. The choli also featured some zari work but focused more on the lehenga choli. The variety in silhouettes also increased during this time. While some lehengas were still flared from the waist, the umbrella style lehenga that flared from higher above the waist became trendy. The choli blouses were cropped short to show off the midriff with a deep neckline in front and back.
In the late 1990s and 2000s, famous Pakistani designers started experimenting with new colors, fabrics, silhouettes and embellishments for lehengas. This completely transformed traditional lehengas into fashion statements. Bolder colors like midnight blue, purple, sea green and pink became popular along with metallics and animal prints. Fabrics shifted from regular cotton and silk to luxurious tissues, brocades, velvets, nets, etc. The unstitched lehenga was also introduced allowing women to get them tailored to perfectly fit their body. Designers played with the hemlines making them shorter in the front and longer at the back trailing on the floor. Hand embroidery took over machine made work, featuring intricate patterns in resham, zardozi, nakshi, beads, sequins and crystals.
One of the most popular lehenga styles today is the mermaid fish-cut lehenga. As the name suggests, this style fits close on the body and thighs, flaring out dramatically from the knees like a mermaid tail. It accentuates a woman’s curves for a very glamorous look. The crop top style choli has also become a hit, showing off the midriff entirely. Off-shoulder and cold-shoulder blouses add a flirty touch.
For weddings, bright pops of color are seen in fuchsia pinks, sunshine yellows, minty greens and coral oranges. Heavy zardozi and resham embroidery creates lavish designs fit for royalty. In contrast, pastels like powder blue, blush pink and peach are top choices for other festive events like mehndi. Lighter embroidery like naqshi, cutdana and tilla embellish these pastel lehengas styled with embroidered dupattas. These days brides want customization and uniqueness for their special day. While the traditional red colour is still popular, other colours like gold, pink and green have gained preference. Brides love having custom outfits made to match the theme of their weddings. Instead of full embroidery, newer techniques like cutwork are being used. Mixing western gown features like trains and veils gives a wonderful fusion touch.
For regular wear, Pakistani women have embraced simple lehenga designs as party and cocktail outfits. Flowy anarkali style lehengas paired with short cholis worn in soft georgettes or chiffon make stunning eveningwear. Embellished round lehengas with slim cholis and dupattas also work very well. These modern lehengas allow women to stay connected to their culture while looking hip and chic.
Pakistani lehengas have come a long way from basic and traditional to elaborate and modern. Yet they manage to keep the essence of Pakistani heritage alive. Lehengas may have evolved in silhouette, color and style but they still represent the beauty and grace of the Pakistani woman. With both online stores like Mirraw and talented designers continuing to innovate, the future looks bright for Pakistani lehengas on the world stage. Their trendy evolution truly integrates the traditional with the contemporary for the modern woman.
